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The Lowly Bean Dried beans are the homely little peasants of cooking, solid and reliable if occasionally unruly, they are the backbone of such classic dishes as pasta fagiole or cassoulet. Because the cooking time of any dried bean increases in direct proportion to its age, the cook is often soaking and simmering - hoping to arrive at a tender, silky interior - with barely a clue as to timing. Yet, even before they surrender and soften, beans steadily absorb the flavours around them. For all their idiosyncrasies in flavour and size, beans are fated to become merely the background upon which other ingredients can shine. Beans, of course, don’t suffer this fate quietly and for centuries their windy revenge has been the subject of fear, loathing and humour. Despite these obvious drawbacks for polite society, the bean is second only to grains in importance to the human diet. Small beans, once they’ve been sorted and picked over for stones, can be soaked for as little as four hours, but a luxurious eight hour bath seems to make them mellow and cook more evenly. Julia Child claims that the after effects of beans can be mitigated by changing the soaking water, and by using fresh, cold water for cooking. Put it this way - it certainly can’t hurt. White beans, sold as small white, Navy, or pea beans, are tiny beadlike ovals, with a mildly nutty flavour . They require slightly more cooking than their black cousins, also sold as “turtle beans”, but are somewhat more versatile. Black beans, which has a rich, earthy taste and a softer texture than white, tend to weep and discolour other ingredients, so they are rarely used with chicken, fish, pork, or soups. Coaxing the intrinsic gentle and elegant flavour from a bean is a time consuming and satisfying task. As with all good cooking, you transform the ordinary into the extraordinary, the hard and self contained into something soft and giving. Pasta Fagioli (Serves 6) The Soup: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion,peeled and diced 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 2 ribs celery, diced small 2 1/4 cups dried white beans, soaked overnight and drained 4 quarts chicken broth 4 cups water salt and pepper to taste 3/4 LB small pasta, like orecchiette or elbow macaroni 3 tbs. chopped Italian parsley The Salad: 2 cups stemmed arugala or spinach, cut into 1/4” strips 4 roma tomatoes, seeded and diced 2 tsp. olive oil 2 tsp. red wine vinegar salt to taste The Croutons: 18 1/4 inch thick slices French Baguette 1 tbs. olive oil 2 tbs. freshly grated Parmesan cheese The Finishing Touches: 1 red and 1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, peeled, cored and cut into thin strips 3/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 3/4 cup black olives, pitted and chopped 1) To make the soup, heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, carrot and celery and sauté over medium heat until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the beans, 1 quart of broth and the water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until the beans are soft, about 1 1/2 hours. 2) Add 2 quarts of broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, add the pasta and cook until al dente, about another 8 minutes. Reheat before serving, adding more broth, if needed. Stir in the parsley and adjust seasoning. 3) To make the condiments, preheat the oven to 350F. Toss together the arugala, tomatoes, olive oil, vinegar and salt and set aside. 4) Brush the bread rounds with olive oil, sprinkle with parmesan cheese, place on a baking sheet and bake until the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Pile on a plate. 5) Place the arugala salad, the peppers, the pine nuts, and the olives in separate bowls. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve with the condiments on the table. |
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