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The
Crust Just
as there are dog lovers and cat lovers, there are bread and pastry makers. These
two things respond so differently to even loving hands that they pull at
opposite temperaments entirely. Doggy bread dough exults in pummeling, contact,
and warmth, and does its tricks almost unbidden, so eager to share its
affection. Pie dough, conversely, catlike, wants love, too, but from a coolly
respectful hand and in short, sweet doses. Only if you get it to its liking will
it deign respond. Pie makers think bread work is too easy; bread makers just
hate pie dough. I’m
a dog person, myself, and my only advise on pastry-making is to approach it
cautiously and give it time to itself. Otherwise, please turn to a pastry person
for your fine tuning. Pie
makers argue about lard versus butter crusts. A pure lard crust is easy to
justify: flaky light and with a flavour that easily marries with fall fruit such
as apples, but the lard taste is definitely there. The following recipe is a
compromise, tempering lard with butter. 2
cups pastry flour ½
teaspoon sea salt 1/3
cup sweet butter (cold) 1/3
cup lard (cold) 1/3
cup ice water 1)
Mix the flour and salt. With your fingertips, work the butter and lard into the
flour until there are no bits larger than peas. Sprinkle with just enough cold
water so that the dough begins to stick together and will hold its shape in a
ball. It should not be sticky. Wrap in wax paper or plastic wrap and let rest in
the refrigerator for at least one hour.. |