Grape leaves

Like prose and poetry, cooking often suffers in translation. It doesn’t even matter if you can find the same ingredients, your tongue still stumbles over the flavours, as if tasting with a strangers tongue. This was how it was when I first encountered a stuffed grape leaf, a small, dense, enigmatic bundle, holding on tight to its precious little cargo of savory rice, lemon and mint. Chewy, herby and cool –they have come to fill a small but important corner of my spring and summer diet. They are so uniquely their own being that they have an almost shy and tentative quality, like little culinary orphans who pass by largely unnoticed. It takes a very large leap of the imagination to believe the assertion in the book, Greek Food by Rene Salaman that, “stuffed vine leaves are the crown of Greek cuisine”. What are these little things when we become the stranger at the table and they the ones at home?

Walking in the summer in our own fields and hills we have no hesitation to pick a bunch of berries and bring them home to make a pie or jam or just eat them by the handful. But where we embrace the sweet, we veer away from the aromatic. Not so the Greeks. In that country, the herbs we shake from bottles or coddle in our gardens grow wild: thyme, rosemary, mint, oregano, sage, fennel, chamomile – these are the smells of the land, not merely the kitchen shelf. The spring rains compel their growth, the summer sun then draws and dissipates their aromatic oils. Then the scent floats down into the towns and villages to mingle with the scent of burning charcoal and roasting lamb.

And, to most Greeks grapevines themselves aren’t plants associated with distant vineyards: they’re familiar and everywhere. Wherever you go, there are grapevines overhead providing shade and shelter. They are the first thing planted when some tiny space is found for a garden and a poignant symbol of spring. Each grape leaf is a green fist that clasps in its pungent fingers those same fresh herbs whose odors season the air itself, mellowed by fruity olive oil and set off by the tart tang of lemon in a chewy bite of rice.

This dish then, if we want to know it on its own terms should be made fresh as nothing will do it in as quickly as dried herbs and dull greens. One need only adjust quantity to pungency. It is a mouthful of summer you are setting on the table, nothing else.

 

To begin, use any growth of unsprayed grapevine. Pick those free of insect damage and neither too big nor too small. Traditionally only the second and third leaves of each vine are taken (this was to protect the vine and grapes from sunburn) the leaves chosen should be thin, flexible and smooth. Shaded leaves are more tender than those in the sun. Once home the leaves should be blanched for 30 seconds in boiling salt water then drained. To preserve them in quantity, roll them into tight bundles and pack them vertically. Mix 1 cup of fresh lemon juice to each quart of water, bring to the boil and then pour the boiling liquid over the leaves. Seal the jars and process for 15 minutes in a boiling water bath.

The leaves to be filled should be turned dull side up. The filling, usually about a teaspoonful if uncooked rice is used is set in the centre. The bottom is wrapped up over the filling and the two sides, one after the other, are folded to embrace it. Then the bundle is rolled up to the tip of the leaf and set, seam side down, in the pot. When the bottom of the pot is full, start a second layer and so one until the filling is used up.

 

A Greek Filling of Fresh Herbs

 

30 to 40 grape leaves, fresh or preserved

½ cup fruity olive oil

1 bunch green onions, finely chopped

½ cup finely minced fresh dill or fennel

¼ cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

2/3 cup long-grain rice

Juice of 1 lemon

2/3 cup boiling water

 

1)     Prepare the grape leaves as directed above. Heat the olive oil gently. Add the scallions, dill or fennel, parsley and mint and heat until they wilt and release their scent. Stir in the rice, add the lemon juice and the boiling water and cook until the water is absorbed. The rice will only be partly cooked. Let this mixture cool, the use it to fill the grape leaves.

2)     Put each grape leaf seam side down in a pot lined with spare grape leaves. Pour in 2 cups of water, and set a heavy plate on top to weight down the stuffed leaves. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook about 45 minutes, tasting them for doneness. When ready, let cool and serve, if you wish, with plain yogurt on the side.

 

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