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How
Sweet It Is The beet is the problem child of the vegetable world. Although its versatility and sweet sturdiness are to be admired and extolled it has never managed to move up the social scale. No,
the beet seems destined to be humble, always linked to borscht and
pickling. And yet, no other vegetable tastes as sweet. The taste of
honey, molasses, even refined white sugar pales next to the unmitigated
sweetness of the beet. And in a culture in which extreme contrasts in
flavour are tantamount to obsession you would think that the sweetness
of the beet would insure it a lofty perch in culinary circles. And
yet, it promotes anxiety. The bloodiness of a beet is at odds with the
innocence we demand of our sweeteners. The vivid, weeping colour
suggests consequence and cost. Like offal and innards, beets are
impolite. Their botanical name, Beta vulgaris, says it all. Whereas
other red foods taste of salt and oil (blood red meat) or have sour
notes (raspberries and strawberries), beets are only sweet. If not
paired with a strong, opposing flavour, their taste can exhaust you. Not
to mention their weepiness, which can be a real mess. Roasting
beets in a hot oven is much in vogue these days. The skin acts as a
natural container and limits seepage. Subjected to fierce heat, the root
inside steams its own moisture and caramelizes, adding dark, toasted
notes to the naturally bald sweetness. Still,
this is a vegetable that needs company. Which is why it is so happy in a
strong vinaigrette, paired with a pungent cheese, like Roquefort or
Stilton or sparring with an excessively tart tomato in a sauce or
bisque. Lightly pickled, beets go well with grilled beef, sausage or
pate and they can handle such outspoken herbs and spices as dill,
fennel, cumin and coriander. And that, alas, is the problem. Beets are
strong enough to meet big gustatory challenges, when we want from our
sweets is that they be meek. Roasted
Beet and Tomato Bisque Serves
6 3
tablespoons olive oil 1
medium onion, diced 1
clove garlic, minced 4
small beets, peeled 1
pound carrots, peeled and cut across in half 1
28 ounce can plum tomatoes, drained 2
teaspoons sugar Sea
salt and fresh ground pepper to taste 5
tablespoons lemon juice 3
tablespoons chopped parsley 1)
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion
and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes until soft. 2)
Add the remaining ingredients, except the salt and pepper, the
lemon juice and parsley. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for
one hour. Reserve 1 beet and 2 carrots. Puree the rest in batches. Stir
in 3 tablespoons lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. 3)
Cut the reserved beet and carrots into ¼ inch dice. Toss with
the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and
season with salt and pepper. Spoon into six bowls and pour the bisque
over. This bisque can be served hot or cold. |
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